Ignition switch/steering column lock

[forbey]

OK, it seams complicated, but it isn't.

95 GMC Suburban. 267 thousand miles.

I drove to work this morning, parked the 'burb. Came out to run some errands over the lunch hour and my key won't work in the ignition.

It won't turn at all.

I tried to wiggle the steering wheel, jiggle the key, no luck.

The key is the original one I got and it is worn.

Question is, is it more likely that the worn key just got to a point that it won't engage the tumblers, or is it more likely that the sterring column locking mechanism is broken?

Next step is to try one of our spare keys, but they were cut using the original key.

Second step would be to have a GM shop use the VIN # to cut a new key. Hopefully that is as bad as it gets. If a new mechanism is needed it could cost in excess of $500.

Any other possible causes or suggestions?

Thanks,

forbey

[JohnC]

Must be thousands of used ones around....

[forbey]

True, but the local Automotive locksmith indicated they wouldn't do it and said the recommendation was to have a mechanic capable of dealing with airbag issues work on it. Unfortunately, that isn't me!

The dwealer indicated a "new" GM switch and labor would be $500. Not sure how hard it would be for me or a shade tree mechanic to accomplish.

Either way, we're hoping for the replacement key being the worst case scenario. Just wondering if this happens a lot and how it is addressed.

Thanks,

forbey

[JohnC]

The problem is likely not the switch, rather the lock. there are simple precautions to take re the airbag, but it's no big deal.

[Robyn]

This is not a biggy.

The air bag is no biggy either, just must be handled correctly.

First off, disconnect the battery/batteries and allow the system to sit for a few minutes.

The air bag can go off if the power is not unhooked.

Once the 12V is off line the air bag can be popped off the steering wheel and then unplugged.

Next remove the nut that holds the steering wheel onto the shaft (may have a safety clip above the nut on the shaft)

Using a steering wheel puller, remove the wheel.

With the wheel out of the way, the next item to come off is the "Lock ring"

This requires a little "PUSHER" tool.
The tools threads onto the end of the shaft anf then compresses the lock ring against its spring.

Once this is done there is another snap ring that comes off.

At this point to will be looking at the turn signal switch assembly.

Remove the connector link from the switch to the control handle (one screw)

Now remove the three screws that hold the turn signal switch to the column assembly.

The switch assembly can be wiggled loose and lifted up some.

You may find a contact device that is used to control the key buzzer.

This may need to be removed to allow access to the single screw that holds the key tumbler into the column.

The retaining screw is usually a Torx head and will be either above or below the key tumbler.

Once this screw is removed the key tumbler will slide right out of the column.

Insert a new one and replace the other parts in reverse order.

$500 to do this is a bit much.

Good luck and keep us posted


Missy

[DmaxMaverick]

Problem: The wheel needs to turn to remove the airbag. This could be a problem if the wheel is locked, and you can't rotate it. There are 2 slots behind the wheel (at 9 and 3 O'clock, with the wheel centered) that need to be positioned at the top to unlock the airbag. In any case, the cylinder/key needs to work in order to easily remove the airbag. Nothing comes out (correctly) with the airbag in the way. You'll either have to get a key working, or have the cylinder picked. The airbag can be removed otherwise, but it's a first-rate PITA (better to have a locksmith pick the cylinder than removal without).

The airbag system is simple, and safe if you follow simple steps. Remove related fuses and unplug the YELLOW connector above/near the brake pedal. All SRS (airbag) connectors are YELLOW, and unique to the SRS.

[forbey]

Thanks DMaxMaverick & Robyn:

Funny, but each time I get into Suburban trouble Missy Goodwrench comes to the rescue.

Robyn... (He says as he gets down on one knee) will you be my mechanic!

One GM shop said they would do it for $500, the one closest to home said they would do it for $300. I found a mechanic (he recently replaced my water pump) who would do the job for $78. (This guy doesn't work on the diesel stuff, but he works on everything else on the vehicle.)

While I love the opportunity to learn a new task on the burb, I think the $78 (plus another $50 for the cylinder coded to the original key) is worth saving my wife's ears from the onslaught of frustrated cussing!

Whatcha think!

forbey

(Side note: My wife would just as soon see me trade this thing in for something newer. But the engine runs like a top and currently uses mostly straight vegetable oil. I can't see replacing my $5000/year savings on fuel for a new car payment. )

[DmaxMaverick]

For $78 labor, I wouldn't get my hands dirty. Pay the man and keep your woman happy (by whatever means necessary). $5000 a year buys a lot of make-'er-happy stuff.

[forbey]

For $78 labor, I wouldn't get my hands dirty. Pay the man and keep your woman happy (by whatever means necessary). $5000 a year buys a lot of make-'er-happy stuff.

That is usually the primary drive for avoiding learning how to do it myself, she gets quite frustrated when I go berserk , she just doesn't realize it's my way of venting.

As for the burb, I bought it in 2005 and had it converted with 189 thousand miles on the engine. I now have almost 268 thousand on it with most of the miles on WVO. (I now have a Ford F250 and an International Box Truck with a 7.3 in it. Both are being converted to burn WVO)

My next project is setting up a program with the high school trades program to make biodiesel. The big benny with that is that I then can use my vehicles as instruction tools for the auto classes (YUPP! I get to have them help keep them running!)

forbey

[forbey]

OK...

Helped out with the repair of my ignition'key cylinder.

We disconnected both grounds to the two batteries.

Tried to get the key to turn even a little, with no luck.

The mechanic removed 2 screws from the bottom cover on the steering column, then removed the 2 interior screws form the top cover. Said he had to use an inverted torxs driver (????)

Once we had the covers off, wetried several attempts to get the cylinder to turn, without luck.

Then we drilled out the pot-metal cylinde, until we could break out the side walls of the cylinder and remove a small rectangular insert that was pushed into the sterring column cylinder housing. At that point the cylinder turned with a screw driver.

We fired up the truck and drove it to his shop.

Again we disconnected the batteries, turned the ignition to the "start" position and inserted a probe into the release hole on the column. THen turned the ignition to the "run" position and slid the cylinder out.

Cleaned out the cylinder housing, inserted new cylinder, replaced the top and bottom housing covers and reconnected the batteries.

Works fine, now.

He never even considered removing the airbag or the steering wheel and the instructions accompanying the new cylinder didn't include the airbag in the instructions.

Go figure!

Job's done and were back on the road. (Our Ford F-250 is another story!)

Either way, another Burb nightmare up and gone, thanks everyone for the assist!

forbey