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Duramax 6600 Welcome to the Internet's first Duramax 6600 diesel discussion forum for the LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, LML, LGH & L5P RPO code engines. Tips on performance, fuel economy, troubleshooting and more.

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  #1  
Old 08-12-2018, 01:19 PM
onlychild onlychild is offline
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Default Duramax Just Quit Running

I was just ready to leave the drag strip last night after testing my race car. Got in, started the truck, and was ready to call my owner and let her know I was leaving. It was idling fine and the engine just quit as if I had turned off the key. We've got power and the starter turns the engine over just fine. It's just a no start.

This is a 2003 3500 DRW with 140k on the clock. About 30K ago I installed a set of injectors from JK. The truck is in good condition and I just replaced the headliner, has some leather replaced in the seats and I had the entire truck repainted (Florida sun just kills paint) as I plan on keeping it.

I have a couple of suspicions.

The bed was R&R'd to paint the front of it and the back of the cab. I'm wondering if a wire or hose pinched?

It has always just started right up. The past few days it's taken longer to start. I've heard some noise below and behind the drivers seat. Does this thing have a lift pump?

Yesterday on the way to the track a smokey ol' bubba truck passed me and I couold smell that but, that lingered longer than it should have.

I've got the idea that we may really have a minor issue though.

The truck is still at the track attached to my trailer and because I have to report for jury duty in the morning it may be a couple of days before I get it to a dealer.

Has anyone dealt with this before?
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Old 08-12-2018, 02:11 PM
cabletech cabletech is offline
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Have you tried to pump the hand pump on the filter housing? There is no lift pump before the filter unless you have added one. If it starts after using the hand pump you likely have air getting into the fuel system. Also have you looked at all the fuses.

Jay
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Old 08-12-2018, 06:09 PM
onlychild onlychild is offline
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Thanks, I didn't know there was a hand pump. Where is it? Didn't know there wasn't a lift pump either. I had one fail on my 6.5. When I get back to the truck I'll some of the stuff I couldn't do before the track closed the gates.

I'll check that when I get there.

I worked my butt off on my 6.5, did all the work and all the fixes, but, I've had this one 12 years and it' the very first time I've had trouble with it. Well, the seat heater malfunctioned on a 95 degree day but, that's it.

I'll take my code reader with me, too.
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Old 08-12-2018, 06:25 PM
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DmaxMaverick DmaxMaverick is offline
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The fuel priming pump is on top of the fuel filter unit. The cylindrical thing sticking up. Just press down. I suggest opening/removing the bleed screw and count the pumps until you get fuel. It's the plastic screw, inboard, on top of the filter unit. A nut driver is preferred over a screwdriver (it's plastic), and it doesn't have to be too tight, as it has an O-ring seal.. More than about 10-20 full pumps and it was dry enough to lose prime (the high pressure pump will not self-prime). Once fuel is at the top, close the bleeder and pump until it's hard (this primes the high pressure pump).
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Old 08-13-2018, 03:18 AM
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EdHale EdHale is offline
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My '06 LBZ has 190,000 on the clock and that plastic bleed screw scared me enough through the years I bought the aluminum one from JK. I assume he still sells it - great addition. IMHO
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Old 08-13-2018, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdHale View Post
My '06 LBZ has 190,000 on the clock and that plastic bleed screw scared me enough through the years I bought the aluminum one from JK. I assume he still sells it - great addition. IMHO
Mine is stainless steel (Lubrication Specialist). I gave my original plastic screw to a friend who cracked his while camping in the desert a few years ago (2003 model). I replaced the original plastic screw for the same reason long before then. It looked like something that could fail at any time, for a variety of reasons. If the bleeder doesn't seal, the engine doesn't run (in OEM configuration). Actual failures have been rare, but they have happened. If GM or Parker really needed to save 20 cents, they surely could have done it somewhere else.
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Old 08-13-2018, 03:01 PM
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a5150nut a5150nut is online now
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Dammit! Now Im going to have to replace my plastic screw. If I don't I know I will get stuck out some where. . . . .
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Old 08-13-2018, 04:59 PM
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trbankii trbankii is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
If GM or Parker really needed to save 20 cents, they surely could have done it somewhere else.
The downside is that the beancounters look at the money they can save over the production of however many vehicles, not what they are saving as it relates to the ownership of the product.
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:44 AM
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Like a local GM dealer here in Knoxville that on an oil change leaves it 1/2 qt. low. At 30 a day thats 15 qts saved
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:21 AM
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Anyone know what the final outcome was?
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