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Thread: ABS question.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    185

    Default ABS question.

    My son's coming home for a few weeks and I need to get his 2000 K3500 single rear wheel truck ready for him to drive. 350 gasser. Last Christmas we replaced a rusted through rear brake line and I've never bled it yet. I'm sure air has migrated up into the ABS module up under the master cyl. All info on this model that I can find indicates that I'll have to have a scan tool to do the ABS module autobleed. I've got a good OTC Genisys scanner that I bought years ago, but the software update kit is ~$790 and that dog won't hunt. The GM Tech II is pretty is expensive, even used. I don't have the wiring diagrams yet, but can I not command the ABS pump on and operate the valves from the ABS module connector? Or does it have to be done as per some autobleed sequence? Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

    Default

    Hi
    The last time i did the brakes on my 98 3500 4x4 i just let gravity do it's thing.Seemed to work fine for me.
    I started at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder,and opened the bleeder and waited for the fluid to come out,then moved to the next.I had changed both rear brake cylinders when i replaced all the shoes.
    Seeing i work alone i thought i would try it and it worked for me.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    It isn't as complicated as the service manual suggests. The repair procedure was written for use by tech's in a GM (or compatible) shop. The scanner-commanded bleed procedure accommodates repair time and shop abilities.

    Simply (and better, IMO), just make sure all the parts are in place and connected properly, and fill it with brake fluid to the full mark. Go to a dirt/gravel (or snowy) road and do several runs to 20-30 MPH, and brake hard. The ABS should activate (and the ABS lamp should come on, at first). Check the fluid level between runs. Once the fluid level remains full after 2-3 runs, it's bled (important! the air travels AFTER braking). If the ABS lamp stays on, repeat until it stays off (key cycle between runs restarts the diagnostic process, or use a capable scanner to clear history). Typical is about 4-6 runs, but I've never had to do more than about 6-8.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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