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6.2L/6.5L Tech Tech forum containing the best technical information about these engines. Please post in the related 6.2L & 6.5L forums. We'll transfer the best topic threads to this forum.

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  #41  
Old 04-16-2008, 07:07 AM
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I did not see any bolts coming into the timing chain cover from the girdle john.

It appears they opted to use the standard timing chain cover, and bonded the bottom to the girdle with RTV sealant. I will take a closer look later today.

Good eyes! The casting and some parts have definitely been redesigned.
Mike
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  #42  
Old 04-16-2008, 07:20 AM
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John
The old 427 Ford medium riser , high riser, tunnel port and SOHC engines used the bolt through the cap design rather than the stud and nut design.

This is a much stronger setup with less likelyhood of a failed bolt.

Cost more to produce though as the cap has to have the little dowel rings to pilot it (or some method)

Many great ideas simply fall by the wayside in favor of cost savings.

Its great to see AMG/GEP using some of these very sound engineering principles.

Robyn
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  #43  
Old 04-17-2008, 06:29 PM
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They've added meat around the exhaust ports, too.
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  #44  
Old 04-17-2008, 07:07 PM
AKMark AKMark is offline
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Hmm.....With 197K on the clock, if my motor ever kicks the bucket, I may have to look at one of these instead of rebuilding. I've rebuilt two 6.2's with horrible results. (Both died due to crankshaft issues.)
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  #45  
Old 04-18-2008, 05:43 PM
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Yeah. I think that is the route I would go. That's a nice looking motor.
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  #46  
Old 04-22-2008, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetBoater View Post
Thanks for the positive feedback Robyn. I don't mind paying good money to have a craftsman do the job right and in a timely fashion.

Here are a few powder coated pictures.


That is very nice work. But what are you gonna do when a buddy tells you "Keep the shiny side up." ? ? ?
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  #47  
Old 04-23-2008, 08:43 AM
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Your funny.
My "autowrecker" trained mechanic has already taken the shine off it...


This is an expensive project, which I am probably going to redo at some point. The mechanic would be good for a re&re on a used motor... but lacks the skill/wisdom/finesse for this job. I asked him to use all new bolts... he reused the bolts off the old motor to attach all peripherals such as intake, exhaust manifolds, etc...
He did get new starter bolts which I specifically mentioned...

The undercarriage is disgustingly filthy, he wouldn't let me pressure wash it at his shop or clean it before the install. He was worried about making a mess on his floor. His floor is more filthy than most garage floors I have seen. Enough venting... he is what he is... a budget mechanic. My loss. My nice engine got installed in the wrong shop.

Here is the clearance on the pan after the install...
Underside view:


SideView:


FrontView:


Tight Spot:


Another day babysitting... the power steering and vacuum pumps, ac, pulleys, radiator, top of intake the manifold, duall thermostat housing and throttle cable bracket, and crank pulleys and front brackets need to go on.

The exhaust crossover, bottom bell housing shield, and starter will complete the backside.

Oh.. and I need to install a 5 foot length of pipe between exhaust down pipe and the muffler.

I will help him setup the TPS and any wiring he can't figure out.

We will then fire it up after we purge air from the fuel line.... at the rate he moves... this will likely be tomorrow.

Does anyone have any tips on initial startup? Assuming it he purges air from the top of the fuel filter canister, and the IP purges the air from Injector lines.

Mike
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  #48  
Old 04-23-2008, 07:03 PM
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OUCH!

I have to say that I'd go back over everything that was done. Anyone with that much obvious disregard for machinery isn't likely to have done anything close to a quality job - a real shame considering the parts you are working with...
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  #49  
Old 04-24-2008, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by JetBoater View Post

Does anyone have any tips on initial startup? Assuming it he purges air from the top of the fuel filter canister, and the IP purges the air from Injector lines.

Mike

My first IP pump replacement I cracked ALL 8 high pressure fuel injection lines at the injectors, cranked with the starter (15 seconds cranking, 2 minutes cool-off) until all 8 showed good fuel weepage (about 3 cranking sessions) and then tightened them all, and it started right up.

Next time, at The Diesel Depot, they just cracked TWO high pressure lines, cranked it (again 15 seconds of cranking and 2 minutes of cool-off) and at the end of the second cranking session it started to run on a couple of cylinders. Let it do that for another minute or two, and soon it was running on six. Tightened the two loose nuts on the two injectors, and in less than a minute is was running on all eight.

I like the second method better.
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  #50  
Old 04-24-2008, 07:51 AM
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Wink Another day of hope

Thanks for the advise on IP lines CleviteKid.

I asked the mechanic if he had cleaned all the IP lines before he installed them, he said yes. The trouble is, he doesn't know what clean means.

I think cracking all 8 lines at the injector might be my best option...

Good thoughts trbankii... that's why I am going to the shop everyday to monitor all the work done. I'm a power engineer by trade, and relying on my training to get me to the end of this project... along with ALL the good folks on this forum. ( also see my post on Do I need a new Mechanic).

Yesterday the mechanic needed to grind out an inch from the bottom bell housing cover... as it rubbed on the girdle. He did a good job.

My mechanic couldn't fit the dual thermostat housing as it rubbed on the idler pulley bracket. He wanted to install the single thermostat housing instead... I said no way. I did have to grind a little meat out of the idler pulley bracket to fit in the dual thermostat housing... no big deal. Tip from Diesel Page Volume I or II. He also cut my new house from Thermostat housing to water pump according to the old single thermostat housing, so guess what, I need to buy another new hose.

He could not fit the forward steel injector line properly... so I brought him the line off the same motor the dual therm's came with... they weren't much different, so I took the one he struggled with and turned it 180 degrees and it fit pretty nice. He had it backwards... COME-ON!

Wish me luck, it should start today... or tomorrow .
Mike
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  #51  
Old 04-24-2008, 09:57 AM
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You may want to verify the injector line installation. 2 lines (at the pump) can be switched, and they "just" fit, similar to what you described.

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  #52  
Old 04-24-2008, 10:06 AM
ronniejoe ronniejoe is offline
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I think he meant the steel return line that runs across the front of the engine.
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  #53  
Old 04-24-2008, 11:57 AM
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Yes... sorry, I was talking about the injector return line. Not the main injector lines.

Just checked in with him by phone, the steering pump, idler and crank pulley, vacuum pump, alternator, and ac pump are now mounted. He has the radiator in also.

A few belts, hoses, and wires... and we should be there.

I need to check my book on glow plug wiring, he said he can't remember how they connect.

A short piece of exhaust pipe will finish the underside of truck and we should be close to the initial startup.
Mike
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  #54  
Old 04-26-2008, 08:47 AM
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Default It works

It rumbles to life!

Well... after repairing the passenger side glow plug wires and the solenoid starter wire (they were all broken or breaking), we did the voltage adjustment on the TPS after the batteries were hooked up.

The cruise was not hooked up as the throttle bracket didn't fit geometrically the way it should. The bracket was welded by the dude I bought the old motor and the dual thermostat housing from... that motor did have a DB2-4911 pump on it, so I'll need to figure this out at a later time. I'll post a picture on a separate thread and see if anyone can advise how it should fit.

We cracked the fuel filter cannister and attached a hose for drainage. We cracked the injector lines at the injectors and started short burst of turning the engine over. The batteries seemed dead so we put them on charge until my mechanic figured out the ground from the driver's side battery to the motor was hanging up in the wheel well . After he re-attached the ground cable to the block... we had plenty of juice to spin the motor and prime the fuel filter and verify oil pressure. This took 5 sessions of cycling the motor about 6 revolutions at a time.

When we verified fuel weeping around each injector, we tightened up the lines.

She fired right up! Nice clean exhaust... the oil pressure was hanging around 3/4 of the gauge.

We shut it down after 1 minute to check the oil level, the restarted and ran it for approximately 20 minutes. The 180 degree thermostats took over 15 minutes to open.. and the guage only rose to 40 C ( the starting point). I'll need to check the sensor. We verified flow through the rad and purged all the air.

Low coolant light was on, so my mechanic found the wire and attached it to the sensor.. light went away .

No leaks... it sounds healthy... and rumbles as loud and my former 6.5! I ran around town for about 45 minutes yesterday. The only problem was the fuel gauge occasionally jumped up and then settling back down to the 1/2 full level. Hmm... wiring? This happend 4-5 times during the drive.

The oil pressure settled to about half the guage at idle, and rose to 3/4 on acceleration...

I need to adjust the wastegate on the turbo, as it did not spool up on the drive home. I called my local injection shop.. and they advised they could time the IP, but it only goes a 1/2 degree either way. I'll see if I get any black smoke on acceleration once the turbo is rolling.

I'll drive the motor normal and change the oil after the first 300 km (150 miles).

After I save a few dollars, I'll add an intercooler and 4 inch exhaust. I needed to use the original 3" exhaust to get the truck rolling yesterday. After this additional work, I'll have it dyno'd and share the numbers.

Thanks to all for the input.
Mike
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  #55  
Old 04-27-2008, 09:45 PM
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Glad to hear it. Can't wait to see dyno numbers.
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  #56  
Old 05-01-2008, 07:54 AM
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I have 150 kms on it so far which has used about 1/3rd of a gas tank... the mileage seems bad. Is that normal? What is the normal range on a tank of diesel in a dually?

The oil remains clean so far... I assume that fantasy of clean engine oil will not last much longer.

I had the truck timed at a local shop called N.W. Injection. They advanced it just slightly. I asked them to give it the "once-over" and they gave it a clean bill of health.

Everything is in order... I just need to get some miles on it.

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  #57  
Old 05-01-2008, 07:30 PM
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I have been averaging about 18 - 19 mpg (US) in my dually. I get over 500 miles per tank, I think it is 32 US gals.
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  #58  
Old 07-08-2008, 09:43 AM
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Default Making Progress

Well... I have spent quite some time diagnosing a mystery Oil leaks.

It turns out the long block was missing 4 bolts at the bottom of the timing chain cover. I did notice this... but the holes were filled with black RTV. Who knew? Franklin Ohio engineer confirmed bolts should be there.

I bought 10 mm bolts and buttoned up the bottom. The threaded holes on the side of the T cover do not thread into the block. See adjacent to harmonic dampner in picture below. I installed short bolts to plug holes.


I used the best RTV I know of to seal the seam.... Ford TA-31. It is a grey paste, offered in half-sized calking tubes, and dries very hard. It sucks to have an oil leak on a new motor due to a bad assembler and poor line inspection.

A 2nd leak was also fixed between water pump base plate and timing chain cover..... my garage mechanic used a budget gasket without sealer. I Re&Re'd that in 3 hours.

Leaks fixed.
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  #59  
Old 07-08-2008, 10:05 AM
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Wink Intercooler Installed

I read the DIY Charge Air Cooler article and generally followed it for the most part.

I modified plumbing and did the install to suite my truck. I had previously installed large aftermarket oil cooler lines... and therefore needed to place the intercooler lower under the bumper due to inference.

Here are pictures for you viewing pleasure starting from the turbo:










Cost was approximately $475

I haven't dyno'd the truck yet but it has noticeably more pull...

I'll be fabing up an intercooler guard to prevent banging the thing. It is in a horrible spot... be we work with what we are given.
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  #60  
Old 07-08-2008, 07:32 PM
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Yessssss indeed, a wretched place to put a cooler I agree.

I have seen one placed in a custom winch bumper brush guard up front that looked nice and protected the cooler very well.

The only way it would get hurt would be a direct head on crash.
The cooler was behind a nice aluminum expanded metal grill to keep rocks off it too.

Nice job on your truck BTW.

Anxious to hear the results of your tests.

best

Robyn
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