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Old 10-02-2019, 09:32 PM
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Default White Smoke On Passenger Side

The other day I noticed white smoke in the passenger side exhaust on start up. It's ONLY the passenger side, nothing on the drivers side. It doesn't last long (just until the engine is warm) and only happens if the truck has been sitting overnight.

I never noticed it before and the only reason I noticed it this time is because I had to get out of the truck to get something right after I started it.

The engine runs a little rough on start up but smooths out before I even get to the end of the block.

While trying to figure this out I noticed a few air bubbles in the IP return line before a cold start.

The engine runs fine otherwise. No blowby.

What the heck would make the smoke come out the passenger side only, and do the few (VERY few) air bubbles in the IP return line have anything to do with it?

While we're at it, how do you go about locating such a tiny air leak in the fuel system?

Thanks
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Old 10-03-2019, 02:53 AM
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Welcome to the forum.

You don't give any particulars about your truck, but since you're in the 6.2 forum I'm going to say that it is at least a 1993 - or possibly older - truck.

For the bubbles, the first suspicion is the return lines themselves. They may be allowing air to enter the return side of things without any drivability issues connected to the supply side. There are kits to replace the "soft" return lines. Check the lines general condition and along them for any "oily" signs that would show a leak.

The other year I had to replace the "hard" supply lines in my 1993 6.5TD due to leaks. Yours is as old (or older) than mine, so leaks are a distinct possibility. After checking the return lines, I'd suggest again to check along the supply lines from tank to engine for any "oily" spots that would show fuel leaking. If the lines run similar to the 6.5TD, this can be an issue where they "disappear" where they go to the tank and where they run up the transmission tunnel to the engine bay, but the condition of the lines elsewhere should give you some idea of the overall condition.

When I removed the lines in my truck, they were in much, much worse condition than I had even realized. In taking them out, they just crumbled in places. I was pretty amazed that they were delivering any fuel for as long as they did.

As for the white smoke, white is typically a sign of coolant entering the cylinders - either a head gasket or crack in the block. As for why only the passenger side - there is a separate head gasket for each side of the block, so only one could be leaking. It can even be leaking around only a single cylinder. A crack in the block would also obviously be localized and not affect both sides.
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Old 10-03-2019, 05:22 AM
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Wow! Talk about negativity! It could also be a bad glow plug, or a bad injector spray pattern causing the white smoke.

No help on the bubbles, although I think a bad injector could cause that, too.
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Old 10-03-2019, 05:52 AM
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It's an 83 C20 (sorry, I thought I had that info in my signature line).

Since I just installed new 60g's last month I don't think it's the glow plugs.

Seems to me if coolant were entering the cylinders that would likely be a constant thing, not isolated to morning cold start.

I've only owned the truck for about 4 months so I have no idea how old the injectors are. Guess it's time for some new ones.

Thanks
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Old 10-03-2019, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdelaney View Post
It's an 83 C20 (sorry, I thought I had that info in my signature line).

Since I just installed new 60g's last month I don't think it's the glow plugs.
That, plus colder starting temps leads to rough(er) starts. The 60's often need a longer glow cycle for good starts in cold weather. They don't get as hot as earlier/other plugs. Try a double cycle of the plugs. Key on until the GP lamp goes out. Key off, then on again for another cycle, then start. A normal cycle should be about 8-10 seconds. 60G's require at least that to get hot.

Quote:
Seems to me if coolant were entering the cylinders that would likely be a constant thing, not isolated to morning cold start.

I've only owned the truck for about 4 months so I have no idea how old the injectors are. Guess it's time for some new ones.

Thanks
Injectors are easy to replace, and relatively inexpensive. About the simplest repair to refresh an old engine. Look for quality from known suppliers, before trying to save a little money. Ebay sellers lie, for the most part. A quality rebuilt injector is better than unknown new.

Weak injectors and poor injectors result in smokey/rough starts.
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:13 AM
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I was looking at a set of new Delphi on Amazon for $219. Any reason to stay away from those?
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Old 10-03-2019, 12:00 PM
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Genuine Delphi are good. Problem is, Amazon is no better than ebay these days. They're both online yard sales with tall claims. Are they sold by Amazon, or an Amazon "seller"? If a seller, probably the same as ebay, anyway.

See if you have a local Diesel shop near you, and if they rebuild and test 6.2/6.5 injectors. They are often much better, at a similar or less cost.
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Old 10-03-2019, 12:26 PM
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Okay, I'll look into that.

Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2019, 06:17 AM
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Here's a source for quality injectors from a high integrity seller:

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/categor...ubCategory=160

Casey
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Old 10-05-2019, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
Wow! Talk about negativity!
Sorry, I guess "white" smoke meant coolant to me. The other causes are more grey to me.

A second vote for injectors from Kennedy Diesel. More costly than bargain shopping, but you'll know what you're getting and you'll have the service after the sale.
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:51 AM
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I agree on the injectors.

Old injectors lose several things over time/miles

Pop pressure drops as does the quality of the spray pattern.

Likely you have some injectors that are popping at way too low of a pressure and are squirting a pee stream instead of a nice fine mist in a cone pattern.

Give JOHN KENNEDY A SHOUT


What I do is have a local shop that does topnotch work build me a set, and on an older rig I usually set the pop pressure towards the lower end of spec to avoid issues that can arise from an injector pump that has seen many miles and it's pressure ability may be a tad lower than optimal..

This CAN help with hot no start issues due to internal leaks in the plungers.

STAY AWAY from ebay on this stuff....

Good luck
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:38 PM
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Hey thanks for all the help and advice!

I put in a set of Delphi injectors and . . . WOW!

I must have really needed them because the truck runs so much smoother and seems much more responsive.

Actually, I put in seven of them. The last one, on the driver's side by the firewall, I couldn't get to with my socket because the shift linkage is in the way.

Is there any trick to doing that that doesn't involve removing the shift linkage?
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Old 10-08-2019, 06:57 AM
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Did you try moving the selector to the low position or ??? to get the arm out of the way ?????


I do't remember having any issues with these.

LARGE BOX END WRENCH ???
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Old 10-08-2019, 08:05 AM
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Lol,

After I wrote the last post it occurred to me that I should try that! I guess sometimes it's easy to overlook the obvious when you're in the middle of something.
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Old 10-08-2019, 08:14 AM
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OK

We will assume then that you got the last one out OK ???
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:43 AM
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Not yet, but I went out and looked under there with the shift lever pulled down and yes, I'll be able to get that out no problem.

Now, after having put in the 7 new injectors performance is great. No smoke on overnight cold start at all.

BUT . . . the was a truckload of air in the IP return line this morning. Started right up though, no problem, no sputtering or stumbling. But the air was there. Hmmmmm . . .

I torqued the injectors to 50lb's. I guess I'll go back through and redo the fuel lines. Maybe I didn't tighten one or all of them enough.
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Old 10-09-2019, 03:29 AM
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If the driveability is good, it is likely that the bubbles are from the return side. With the age of the vehicle and replacing the injectors, I'd check the return lines at the injectors and replace them if necessary.
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Old 10-09-2019, 12:14 PM
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Thanks!

When I did the injectors I also put in all new return lines sheathed in cloth of some kind (fancy!)

I'll check the fitment on those too.
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Old 10-09-2019, 12:35 PM
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If the return lines are leaking air in, they will certainly leak fuel out. It takes a bit of running to purge all the air out of the injectors and return circuit, but it shouldn't be much (essentially the amount of air in the lines), and it shouldn't take too long. If the engine was ran only minutes to an hour, there may still be air in the return from the injector and return line replacement. Otherwise, air coming out of the IP, is air that got into it. If you have no external fuel leaks, and the lift pump is working and healthy, then look for a leak between the lift pump and tank sender unit, or the sender unit itself.

The mechanical fuel lift pump has a weep hole at the bottom of the pod. When the pump fails, it will leak fuel from there. If fuel is leaking from the weep hole, the pump has failed due to the ruptured diaphragm. This is often misdiagnosed as a loose line at the pump (and folks overtighten the nut until it strips or breaks). If it has failed, it may still pump enough fuel to keep an engine running well, at least for the moment, but may also allow air into the system (the fuel leaking out is traded for air leaking in).
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