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6.2L Diesel 1982-93 6.2L Diesel - Welcome to the Internet's first discussion forum for the 6.2L engine.

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Old 09-24-2019, 04:55 PM
hunters628 hunters628 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Ellensburg Wa
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Default to 6.2, or not to 6.2

First off this is my first post here, I have been lurking a bit, my name is Hunter and I am from the heart of Washington, Ellensburg.

Okay I’ve been reading a lot, and I mean A LOT, on this topic and I am growing more conflicted and would like to weigh in on the opinions of others and get a general idea of any extras I will need to buy.

My truck is a 82 chevy k10 with a SM465 and a weather seized 350.

I love the idea of the 6.2. It has the potential for awesome mpg and diesel consistently cheaper than gas here. The engine is a drop in with some minor wiring and other plumbing. Since My truck is a 1/2 ton I won’t be towing much with it therefore don’t need a ton of power. A local junk yard has a 86 Chevy g30 van that has a 6.2 and they will sell me the engine with all accessories for $300. The catch is the yard owner thinks it has a bad motor but it has been so long he can’t remember if it was that van or the cucv van he has. I can get a rebuild kit for the engine for around $400.

Unfortunately the junkyard van is an automatic so I would have to try and track down a diesel flywheel or some sort of balancer for the engine, if I’m not wrong in my reading. I could probably work out a deal to get the hydro boost setup and some other odds and ends I’ll need to do the truck such as a radiator and some batteries.

I have also located a turbo setup, minus the intake, off of a 6.5 for $100. Not sure if that is a good deal but I have read it is a direct bolt on and gives a power and mpg boost as long as I keep the EGTs under 1100f and the boost 10psi.

I am assuming the 350 in my truck will need to be bored and need a ground up rebuild to be reliable. The truck has been sitting outside for 6 years and I tried to rock it back and forth in gear with my buddy’s truck and couldn’t get it to budge at all. That was after the cylinders were filled of marvel mystery oil for a little over a week.

All I want out of this truck is to be a reliable daily driver and to get good mileage. If I had the money and time I would do a 4bt swap. But I need this truck running before winter hits.

If I stick with the 350 Ill need to get as close to 20mpg as possible. I often drive a 400 mile round trip to the coast to visit family, 2-3 times a month. is that even a possible number to achieve without going all out ls swap? I wont be able to affor the fuel bill for the truck at 12 mpg.

What do you guys think. I need honest opinions. Thank you in advance.

Last edited by hunters628; 09-24-2019 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 09-24-2019, 06:36 PM
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Robyn Robyn is offline
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
 
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Location: Newberg Oregon
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Pretty easy swap

You must use the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate and pilot bearing/bushing for a 6.2/6.5

None of the gasser stuff will work.

Electric fuel pump at 5 psi and a 40 GPH capacity is needed

If the engine has a mechanical fuel pump your set.

Use a 2 to 5 micron diesel fuel filter.

Ignition wire to run the Injection pump fuel on/off solenoid.

Piggyback a line from the ignition lead through the Cold advance switch on the rear of the RH head and feed the cold advance solenoid and fast idle on thre injection pump... (Temp switch closed when cold and opens at 120F)

Manage the glow plugs with a Ford starter relay and a momentary button in the dash.

60G plugs
10-20 seconds on and then twist it over.

In cold weather a few short bumps of the glow button after it fires up will help smooth things out until the engine has run 15-30 seconds.

Always be sure that the starter has the front anchor hook to the block.

Must use the diesel starter
(Use the gear drive series...much lighter)

Must use the diesel accessories.

Need the diesel radiator and shroud

Must use a hydroboost for the brakes.

Exhaust to suit.

6.2 with simple dual exhaust sound nasty.

A 6.5 turbo, manifold and crossover will work...but if you have AC you will run into issues

Scare up a BANKS turbo for the 6.2 and life will be much better.

Using a Banks requires a Turbo oil drain back and if you use a mechanical fuel pump it's best to go with an electric pump.

OR you can use the pipe thread in the bottom of the fuel pump mounting in the block and dump the turbo oil return in there...


Have fun.

WE'RE HERE FOR YA...

Good luck
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Old 09-30-2019, 10:10 AM
hunters628 hunters628 is offline
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I have a non-ac truck so clearance there isn't much of a problem. I went digging through the junkyard the other day and found that they have a running 165k mile 6.5td and they want $400 for it including accessories. That would cut out the potential for a rebuild right off the bat. Would it be better to go for the 6.5? I forgot to check what year it was but if it is a pre 94 it is mechanical right? Seems like it would be just as easy as the 6.2 swap.
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Old 10-01-2019, 09:51 AM
Yukon6.2 Yukon6.2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hunters628 View Post
I have a non-ac truck so clearance there isn't much of a problem. I went digging through the junkyard the other day and found that they have a running 165k mile 6.5td and they want $400 for it including accessories. That would cut out the potential for a rebuild right off the bat. Would it be better to go for the 6.5? I forgot to check what year it was but if it is a pre 94 it is mechanical right? Seems like it would be just as easy as the 6.2 swap.
The only thing the year matters in your case is what block and if it uncracked.
You can use any 6.5 in a mechanical truck
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