engine shuts down 1995 6.5

[N9Phil]

This morning for the second time in a week the engine just dies. The first time was as I pulled in for fuel and then this morning as I came to a stop for a traffic light. When this happens the engine will crank but no ignition. When I turn the key on the glow plug light does not light. the first time with the key turned on I noticed that the glow plug light came on after 3 or 4 minutes and then it started and ran with no problems until this morning. After pushing the car to the side of the road this morning I left the key turned on and Just as I was about to call a tow truck the glow plug light came on and it started right up. I ran a few service calls and everything was fine. Both times were the first thing in the morning and temp outside was in the lower to mid 30's and it happened after about a mile from the house. I am leaning toward the FSD since I haven't had to replace it for probably 2 or 3 years. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Phil

[DmaxMaverick]

While the FSD is the usual suspect, when they fail, they have no affect on any other system (such as GP cycling). This sounds more like an Ign. switch and/or associated connectors or wiring. Grounds, perhaps, but they won't usually cause a running engine to stop. Less likely would be a uniquely failed temp sender (intermittent open/short/variable) or damage to its harness.

[N9Phil]

I thought about the ignition switch. I tried wiggling the key after it had stopped to see if the glow plug light would come back on and it wouldn't. After the glow plug light came on and it started up I tried wiggling the key and the car didn't shut off. It looks like something might be getting hot and after it sits for a while the glow plug light comes back on and everything is fine again. This theory seems wrong because once everything works again it goes for days before it quits again. I have had ignition switches go bad in Suburbans before but when the did the just went out and no coming back.

[DmaxMaverick]

The ign. switch is not part of the lock cylinder. It's actuated by linkage, located on the top of the column. A worn system, key to switch, will have quite a bit of play before input from point A (key) meets output by point B (switch contacts). If it hasn't been visited in a long while, it should be near the top of your list. At the very least, check the throws, and the connector (probably brittle or burned). A burned connector, in any way, indicates poor contacts (or it's just really old - same result).

[sctrailrider]

Like Dmax stated, the "switch" is down the column about half way, that would be a good starting point... get it starting point LOL...

[JohnC]

+1 on the ignition switch. My '95 had a flaky switch that sometimes wouldn't power the transmission, only when it was cold...