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Thread: 2001 6.5l intermittent cut out and now won’t start.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    USA, Virginia
    Posts
    11

    Default 2001 6.5l intermittent cut out and now won’t start.

    Hi all,

    I’m new here and new to the 6.5l diesels.

    I purchased a used 2001 Chevy G3500 Cutaway box van about 3 months ago as a work truck. It had 85,000 original miles on it and seems to have been babie. Ran great when I drive it from Montana back to VA and had not given me any issues until last week. I was headed home after work and it just cut off like someone had turned the key off. Never could get it re started and had to be towed home. Once home I checked the obvious things (to me anyways) double checked fuel level, changed fuel filter, checked battery output, checked all fuses, I was getting fuel out of the valve on top of the fuel filter but not to the injectors. Eventually after continual cranking started getting fuel to injectors and it finally restarted but I have no idea what the cause was.
    Jump forward a week. Drove it 3 days this week with no problems. Then today it cut out on me 3 times on the way to work. Coasted to the shoulder and restarted. Got to work. Went toleaveto go home and it cranks fine but will not start. Opened a couple of injector lines and there’s not a drop of fuel coming out when trying to start it.
    Did some reading and many things pointed to the PMD. Mine already had been replaced at some point with a remote mounted one and was easy to get to so I grabbed a new one at Advance and installed it. Still won’t start. These vans don’t give much room to access the injection pump and fuel shut off solenoid but that’s where I am headed next. Just thought I’d see if anyone had similar issues or suggestions before I throw a bunch of time and money at it.

    Thanks for your time and help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    USA, Virginia
    Posts
    11

    Default

    I methodically checked out parts starting at the lift pump, then fuel shut off solenoid, then PMD. Everything I checked seems to check out. Correct voltage at part. Part is functioning. Still no fuel to injectors. Unplugged the optical sensor and tried to crank withtwo injector lines opened up. Boom! Yep to injectors! So. My question is. Being that every place I’ve called says they don’t carry just the sensor. Do I need to replace the whole injection pump? I did find one sensor, supposedly new, on eBay. Did some more reading and found mixed info on installing a new sensor. Something about having to have the dealership calibrate it if I put a new one in??
    Any help much appreciated!

    Also. For what it’s worth. This thing hasn’t thrown a single code but runs fine with the Optical Sensor unplugged.

    Thanks!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    USA, Virginia
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Also worth noting.
    There seemed to be diesel fuel in the plug for the optical sensor when I unplugged it...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

    Default

    I changed the optical sensor in the pump that used to be on my tow truck,had no issues.

    I would change one again.
    Others will say it needs to be done at a shop.
    Yet others on this site have had success changing them.
    If you are mechanically inclined and are careful you should have good results.The main thing is to get it as close to the original as possible.
    Diesel in the plug would say to me that it is leaking through the wires.
    Good Luck,and don't let fear and common sense stop you.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Granby, Missouri, USA
    Posts
    3,081

    Default

    I replaced the optical sensor in my IP once, and it was very tricky. The sensor is VERY VERY touchy (sensitive) to get adjusted. I don't think I would try do it again if I had to. I could never get it to run quite right, and even simple things like the cruise control were affected. Eventually that IP crapped out on me, and I replaced the entire pump.

    It's worth a shot, though, and will definitely save money. It may just not run optimally after the swap.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    USA, Virginia
    Posts
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    Thanks for all the advice/input!
    Much appreciated!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Festus, MO.
    Posts
    173

    Default

    Not sure how much faith I'd put into that PMD you bought from Advance. I'd look to borrow one from a running truck.

    Your symptoms are identical to mine when my PMD failed.

    Big Green

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    In the North
    Posts
    700

    Default

    I agree with big green,. I have a known working pmd on hand at all times,. I then buy a new one to replace the dud,.and always keep my known good one seperate,. So far the known good spare on its long extension cable has helped 2 guys in my area that were losing their minds with 6.5 internet fixes,..
    ������ my extension cord, and 2 spare pmds'
    Last edited by phantom309; 02-02-2020 at 10:21.
    1999 chev suburban C2500
    300,000 mi

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