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Thread: 2003 Duramax Worth if not running

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Posts
    2

    Default 2003 Duramax Worth if not running

    Hello All - First time posting here, but I've found many pieces of advice on this website. Thank you to all of those who have posted useful information here!!!
    My 2003 LB7 Duramax decided to cr@p out. The best guess is the pin on the timing gear has sheared off. Not sure what all the damage could be, but it has been recommended to replace the whole thing. The cost of tear down and not knowing what else can be wrong may not be worth the cost/effort. Okay, I'm starting to be convinced. However, in an effort to investigate all of my options, I was wondering what the truck would be worth as-is? (Nothern Colorado)
    2003 LS Crew cab, grey, Dually, 230K miles. Great condition (other than not running now), I've always tried to take care of it (KB listed as $13K running). New bed sides since the last shop hit a pole backing out of the shop. Paint all in good condition. Injectors replaced ~15K ago.
    Besides a junk yard, I'm not sure who would buy it now if I wanted to sell it without getting it running first.
    I'm considering both of either the complete engine install or just the Long Block and use some of the existing parts. May use the injectors since they are still fairly new and the shop said they can test them.
    Any thoughts or advice? Sorry if I'm vague, I don't want this to be too long.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Default

    Welcome aboard!

    Long block or complete, why not an engine from a wreck? You could probably buy an entire wrecked truck for not much, then sell the remains to a recycler, or part it out if you have the space and time. Craig's list and eBay move things pretty quickly. Just avoid models from CA, or with CA smog, unless yours is exactly that. CA smog 2002+ LB7 have heads and emission equipment others don't (EGR), but the short block is the same.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Not much to choose from, but I will look. I don't have the equipment/space to install myself, my garage is not quite big enough. The cost of having someone else do it doesn't seem worth it (125/hr). I'm debating going with full warranty and keeping for another 50K miles or go cheapest route and get it running the sell right away. I don't want to be dishonest to the next guy though, so I'm afraid I wouldn't get much.

    Okay, on that note of installing myself, do I need anything special other than the standard wrenches and torque specs? I'm not a dummy, but I've never done a complete R&R myself with something this complex. I thought I read somewhere that you need to have special alignment done with the tranny?? Anything that would need programming or special skills other than a pair of biceps to get it in and out?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Default

    Ideally, it's cab-off, but that requires space and equipment. Significantly more than a garage that's already too small. Otherwise, remove the front clip and engine/tranny out/in as a unit. No special tools required outside the engine except for QD sleeves (for disconnecting the line connectors, cheap to buy). Biceps are helpful, but you'll need a hoist as well.

    As far as who's doing it, lots/most mechanics take after-hour jobs for projects like this. Check around the local (good) shops. Maybe get a flat rate quote for the R/R. Probably a lot less than 125/hr, either way.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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