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Thread: Power Window Regulators

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,420

    Smile Power Window Regulators



    I have a love/hate relationship with power window regulators... I really love being able to move the windows up/down at the push of a button, but I've had to replace 3 power window regulators in my 2001 GMC Crew Cab, one of them (probably the least used one) twice... Recently, while spending a few days in Glacier National Park with my family, we discovered that the right rear window went down while on the "Going to the Sun" road, but wouldn't go back up... Luckily, I had a roll of duck tape with me that showed the thousands of tourists visiting the park that day that we were indeed a little bit hillbilly here in Montana...

    I ordered a replacement right rear power window regulator from Amazon as soon as we arrived home. This one was delivered in just a few days, was a little more than $40, made in China, and it worked just fine when installed. In fact, the first replacement regulator I installed a decade ago for the front driver side was also made in China... Is anything not made in China?

    Being the pack rat that I am, I saved parts from the old regulators. Those parts came in handy recently... I had just finished up the install of the RR regulator, cleaned up everything, and even lubricated the door hinges and other mechanical parts, as well as cleaned out the inside of the door to protect it from being subject to rust... This was a bang-up job! Even if I say so myself.

    As soon as I got back into the driver's seat to move the truck back into its driveway slot, with fingers crossed I thought I'd run all four windows up/down one last time... What was I thinking??? This is when the left rear window went down about 6" then refused to budge in either direction... It had worked fine earlier that day... This was a Yosemite Sam moment... Luckily (if you can call this luck), this was the same regulator that I had replaced a few years earlier... I kept the motor from the outgoing factory original regulator because only the cable assembly had failed... Notice that I had labeled the motor in the photo... Just the motor needed to be replaced, and replacing it was easy. Getting the window functioning again was a simple matter... (since I'd had the RR door apart earlier and knew the drill).

    Moral of this story... label and keep any of the good parts from any regulator you replace!

    By the way, I've replaced 3 power window regulators in this GMC, the driver's side power window regulator in Sarah's 1994 6.5TD Blazer, and 3 power window regulators in a Crown Vic (my dad's car). Door panel removal has been the biggest challenge - not the mechanical aspect of regulator replacement. Panel removal/replacement is where you'll spend the most time - trying not to damage anything. Go slow and easy when working with the door panel. Read about regulator service here on TDP, Youtube it or ask questions here in this bulletin board if you need help. I've written about this topic. Maybe I'll put that illustrated step-by-step story back online - if anyone thinks it would help.

    Jim
    Last edited by More Power; 08-07-2023 at 09:56. Reason: add stuff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
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    1,639

    Default

    I had the right one on my 04 GMC go down and refuse to go back up a couple times.
    I was able to remove the motor and found the shaft from the motor was rusty and binding in the housing.
    I was able to disassemble the motor and clean the rust off the shaft,greased with synthetic grease and its been good for the last 7 years.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,420

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Yukon6.2 View Post
    I had the right one on my 04 GMC go down and refuse to go back up a couple times.
    I was able to remove the motor and found the shaft from the motor was rusty and binding in the housing.
    I was able to disassemble the motor and clean the rust off the shaft,greased with synthetic grease and its been good for the last 7 years.
    I like your solution!

    I was in the barber shop yesterday getting a haircut, and listened to the barber and client sitting in the chair discuss door hinge lubes for his late model GM pickup. He had been using a graphite lube for quite some time, but the squeak always came back in a short time. This last time, in a moment of desperation while away from home, he sprayed the hinge pins using spray sun blocker... He said it's been a while since then, and the squeak hasn't returned... Jim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,647

    Default

    I would bet some old fashion 3in1 or sewing machine oil would work too
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,590

    Default

    GM recommends engine oil (unused) for most things that might squeak or bind, including hinges and latches (doors, hood, etc.). I think I'm the only person I know who actually uses it for that. Works as well, or better, than anything else, most of the time.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,420

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    I've been using motorcycle spray chain lube for a long time. I also use the small tube in the nozzle to keep the over-spray to a minimum. This lube comes out thin, and penetrates into the pins well, then once the solvent carrier has evaporated, the sticky lube stays put. But, I suppose there are lots of right answers to this question - except not lubing them at all.

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