2001 chevy 3500 6.5 diesel

[dilusi]

Hi there! First time poster, intermediate only knowledge of diesel engines...I bought a truck with a dump body that had a motor from a junk yard installed into it and the previous owner could not get it running due to a starter issue. I solved the starter issue and it is cranking perfectly. My final issue is that I have pressurized fuel to the filter at top of the motor but cannot get fuel to injectors. I have cracked each line at top of injectors and installed 2 new batteries and have cranked over the motor enough times to bleed out 10 engines. I tried a little bit of starter fluid and the engine is very responsive. still cannot get fuel to top of injectors. I have a 6 wire plug at top of the motor that is not plugged into anything but I looked everywhere and cannot find where it goes. So wondering about that as well. Also there are 2 small rubber hoses connected at the bottom of the filter housing, I do not know what they are for or go to but could they be switched and hinder the fuel flow? Welcome any thoughts and thanks for help in advance.

[Robyn]

Hi

Welcome to TDP

Please post a picture of the 6 wire plug and we will go from there...

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

2001 with a 6.5TD would be a 3500HD (GMT400, Medium duty, 90's body style, ~15K GVWR, used for dumps, tow trucks, utilities, etc.). I thought 2000 was the last model year, but I could be mistaken. 2001 began the GMT-800 sheet metal and Duramax/Allison in the light trucks. It should have electronic fuel injection, but who know what they installed from the wrecking yard.

Hi

Welcome to TDP

Please post a picture of the 6 wire plug and we will go from there...

That was my first thought, as well. A pencil/crayon drawing would probably work. It's either 2x3, or an inline plug.

[mjservices1945]

image2 (1).jpegimage1 (1).jpegimage0 (2).jpeg

Hi

Welcome to TDP

Please post a picture of the 6 wire plug and we will go from there...

Hey all This is actually dilusi but I had to register under another user name because for some reason I cant login anymore under dilusi. I am not getting the password reset email?? anyway here are some pics image3.png Thank you so much for replying!

[Robyn]

Does the black wire on that plug connect to a screw on the injector pump case ????

The plug looks like the plug that connects to the PMD

If that is the case ...The engine will not run unless it is connected to a PM

Use an extension cable and a fresh PMD (Use a #5 resistor in the PMD PLUG SOCKET)

Likely somebody unplugged the PMD for what ever reason.....

A remote mounted PMD is the ticket
These are a decent PMD

You must have the PMD mounted on a heat sink/cooler

Outside the engine bay is preferable

https://www.ebay.com/itm/13194427050...Bk9SR6yo0fPGYg

[DmaxMaverick]

Yes, with the PMD/FSD (Pump Mounted Driver, or Fuel Solenoid Driver if it's mounted elsewhere, but the same thing) disconnected, the pump doesn't deliver any fuel to the injectors.

Pull the glow plugs you can reach without too much grief while bleeding. It will lighten the load on the starter, allow for faster cranking speed, and fuel will fog from the GP holes when the injectors get fuel. Once you see fuel at the GP holes, button up everything and it should start very easily.

Hey all This is actually dilusi but I had to register under another user name because for some reason I cant login anymore under dilusi. I am not getting the password reset email??......

Your original password should have worked, but that's Gmail messing with your email. Sometimes they go right into your Spam folder, other times they delay for a few days (forum activation and password reset messages expire in 24 hrs), an occasionally they just disappear into the vapor. Google doing what Google does. Your Verizon email is fine, and should not have issues. I deactivated your first account attempt. If you'd like to keep it, we can change your email on that account and merge the accounts (one username for all your threads/replies). Whichever you prefer. You can contact me at the email in my signature with your wishes (use your Verizon email, please), or do nothing and let it ride as it is, using your latest account.

[Yukon6.2]

Just sold a 94 just like your truck with a dump box.
It was DOA and had a bunch of wiring issues...
Ended up having a questionable pump as well,once hot it would not restart.
The new Owner is a 6.5 fan and was told of the issue, i threw in a used pump with the deal.
The original plan for the truck fell through and then the New owner inquired about it...Sold
A extension harness and new PMD will cure the no start issue with any luck

[mjservices1945]

Ordered the PMD that was suggested on here. Probably will come in the mail today. I will let everyone know how it goes. Thank you everyone for all the info and response. It is much appreciated!!

[mjservices1945]

Hi everyone! Just rec'd the PMD and would appreciate any info on installation. IMG_2101.jpg

[a5150nut]

On a cooler either behind the bumper or my 94 had an opening in front of the left battery that provided outside air in. You will need and extension harness or make your own.

[DmaxMaverick]

Ideally, it should be mounted on a heat sink, outside the engine compartment, with flowing fresh/cool air. An extension harness will be necessary.

However, if you should install it under the hood, subject to engine compartment heat, running or not, it's best installed on the injection pump, as per the OEM location. Heat sinks work in both directions.

If there is a PMD currently mounted to the injection pump, try that first. Chances are, it's OK, and just unplugged. You can always remote locate the FSD at a later time. Your current objective is to run the engine.

The OEM harness should have a lone wire from it. That wire must be mounted to the injection pump. It is the PCM ground, and mounting it anywhere else will almost always cause timing errors.

Don't sweat the calibration resistor, at this time, if connecting the OEM location driver on the IP. It may or may not be currently installed, but is very difficult to see in a mounted PMD (it inserts onto the connector pins inside the PMD connector). If 2 are installed, it will cause other wild geese to chase. Its absence will cause the PCM to complain, sooner or later, but it will not hinder starting or running.

[mjservices1945]

Hello all, thank you again for all the great help. I am coming along with my project, it starts and runs great. But unfortunately, I think I was lied to about the great $3000 dollar junkie motor... It has a bad case of blow by coming out of the valve cover and dipstick tube, it is a pretty strong flow. Anybody ever have to deal with this, any advise?? I feel like maybe I am missing something or maybe any additives could help it along a bit longer, don't know. Maybe I just have to watch out for another motor soon, now that the truck has all the components to run. Thanks in advance for any input.

[DmaxMaverick]

A little blow-by is normal, but the small dipstick tube isn't the best indicator. Remove the oil filler cap at idle. A little whiff of vapor is normal. If it's huffing like a locomotive, it's excessive. The CDR (tuna can on the passenger side valve cover) will limit the amount of vapor being sucked into the intake at higher RPM's, while it's default function, such as at idle, is full open (changing or messing with it won't help with excessive blow-by). There are additive remedies, but if it can be helped, it's usually a matter of choosing a different oil brand and/or viscosity.

[mjservices1945]

Thanks! What oil do you recommend?

[DmaxMaverick]

Mobil 1 5w-40 (truck/SUV Diesel) is good, and readily available just about anywhere. I've been mostly using it for the last couple decades. Delo 15w-40 for dino stuff is also good. Many 30 weights, even Diesel rated, dino or synthetic, don't agree with 6.5's, and tend to vapor off at a higher rate. Some folks use it with good luck, but many don't. Amsoil, Redline and Royal Purple, if available, is also good stuff. I've heard the later Penzoil is good, but I haven't tried it. Rotella, of any flavor, seems to be the brand with the most complaints in light truck Diesels, and is the worst of them in my experience. Your engine and your climate may determine the actual experience.

[mjservices1945]

Thanks! In your first sentence did you mean Mobile 1. 5w 40 or
Mobile. 15w 40?

[DmaxMaverick]

Meaning Mobil 1 or Mobil Series xxxx synthetics. I used Mobil Series 3000 in my 2014 Cruze Diesel (it's synthetic European Diesel oil, not designed or intended for light truck Diesel engines and larger). Either is fine, but the 5w-40 is more readily available, at least in my neck of the woods. I can't find the 15w-40 almost anywhere lately, and it's nearly twice the price when I do. I've used both, and the engine doesn't seem to know the difference. In colder climates, 5w is preferred over 15w. I don't know if Mobil makes the Mobil 1 15w-40 any more, as it seems they haven't supplied my area in over 10 years. Mobil 15w-40 traditional oil is still available, but I don't use or recommend traditional oils any longer.

[mjservices1945]

Hey everyone! It is up and running! 1 more thing.... it starts right up no problem. sometimes at stop lights or stop signs it will just cut off. It will start right back up though. Any thoughts? we changed the fuel filter and no change...