AMG/GEP 6.5 blocks

[Robyn]

Anyone coming across a new AMG 6.5 block that has unfinished bores.

Yesssss there are some out there. I bought one this past winter and it looked great.

I had to buy all the dowels and plugs, get it bored and honed.

This past weekend I discovered that the mainline was .002" under spec.

If you or anyone you know stumbles onto one of these blocks, be sure and check the mainline before assembling it.

OR at least check the main bearing clearance.

These are good blocks, but had some anomalies during machining and ended up online rather than the scrap heap.

Missy

[chris_maxwell]

I have my truck in the shop for a crank explosion; they say they are getting a long block out of NY (new block and remanned heads). I understand that this is the only authorized rebuilder for AEG, do you know who they are and what their product is like?

[Robyn]

Not sure who this is outfit is.

I am only aware of one rebuilder that's authorized to be a "factory" rebuilder.
They are not in New york

Get a name of the outfit and post it, we may be able to fill in some of the blanks.


Missy

[THEFERMANATOR]

I have my truck in the shop for a crank explosion; they say they are getting a long block out of NY (new block and remanned heads). I understand that this is the only authorized rebuilder for AEG, do you know who they are and what their product is like?

I'd bet money it's international diesel who claims to be the only authorized rebuilder for GEP(which is a bold face lie). Do a quick search and you will find that there stuff isn't worth the shipping costs. they do have cheap prices, but this is one instance where you get what you pay for.

[chris_maxwell]

i believe the rebuilder is usa engine production; all new lower end and remanned heads.

[More Power]

Anything out of New York would be suspect... because the same vendor has changed the business name many-many times, to stay ahead of the bad press. Too many TDP members have been burned...

[THEFERMANATOR]

i believe the rebuilder is usa engine production; all new lower end and remanned heads.

I looked up that site and it is the same web address as international diesel used to have, so RUN FOREST RUN! DON'T BUY FROM THEM! Unless you want oil leaks galore, poor quality builds, wrong oil pumps installed, blown out block oil plugs, and so on and so on. Do a quick search for them and you will see more than you ever wanted to know of poor build quality. I don't know where your at, but a friend of mine just bought one from TITAN engines out of Ocala Fl and it looks like a decently built engine. They use the chinese blocks, but do there own machining on them, and are using clearwater cylinder heads on them.

[CedarGrove]

In my opinion if your not getting it from Kennedy you are wasting time and money.

[chris_maxwell]

I think it may be too late; it is supposed to deliver tomorrow. The shop doing the work ordered the long block; he says he has done more than a hundred of these engines with only minor oil leaking (valve covers). I was leary of it being a questionalbe shop; when was the last time someone had trouble with this outfit?

i can get an engine from the dealer for 6325, a couple of thosand more; not sure what Peninsular and Kennedy want for theirs.

[rameye]

If I may ask ...how much was it??

[chris_maxwell]

Now it is on sale for 3750. i spoke with them today and they said that they sale AMG blocks and heads for 6900, the long blocks for 4K are american made blocks and assembled in their plant. Not too certain i can believe the american block part; who else in the US makes blocks?

[THEFERMANATOR]

Now it is on sale for 3750. i spoke with them today and they said that they sale AMG blocks and heads for 6900, the long blocks for 4K are american made blocks and assembled in their plant. Not too certain i can believe the american block part; who else in the US makes blocks?

They're chinese castings that are finished machined here in the US. The only US blocks I know of are poured by INTERNATIONAL(the real INTERNATIONAL diesel engines, not the shop that calls themselve that) and have the INTERNATIONAL diamond cast in the valley. Another note about the chinese blocks is it seems they are cast using SAE and some metric bolt holes as the one my friend got had SAE threads for the bellhousing, but metric for teh engine mounts. He had to replace ALOT of his hardware as his 00 was all metric.

[Robyn]

Here are some piccy's of the REAL DEAL

Notice the date codes on the back of the block

this one is 06 10 J
The ones that come by boat are not coded this way.

When AMG took over in late 2000 they changed a lot of stuff including the markings on the block, casting metalurgy, internal casting dimensions and a buttload of other stuff.

The julian date sequence was changed too

The let on the end of the string is the year. H was 2001, I was not used as it could be confused as a ONE (1) and then J was 2002, followed by K,L,M and so on.

All bolt holes in these blocks are Metric thread including the bellhousing bolts that are 10mm X 1.5

All the ones that are coming out of china that I have seen still use the old style date codes that were copied off of the early GM blocks and the bellhousing holes are 3/8 standard thread.

The overseas blocks that I have seen do not have the Diamond logo in the valley either.

The AMG blocks are painted before machining.

Here is a link to an existing thread I postd and it has all the piccy's of a Real AMG Block that I am working on. http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...ad.php?t=39375

Pic number 8 has the rundown on the julian dates . GO TO PAGE 3 OF THE THREAD


Missy

[Kennedy]

Best of luck, but knowing the source you'll need it. Be sure the installer gives you good warranty. For just short of $6k including round trip freight you can have the real deal brand new long block.

There is just SOOO much crap out there these days it really makes a guy question involvement in the 6.5 any more.

I just sold one of our 6.5's to a guy who shortly after installing blew his top claiming the engine was junk and knocked. Come to find out he had Ebay "marine" injectors form a whorehouse in FL. That pretty much summed up the REAL issue...

[THEFERMANATOR]

I just sold one of our 6.5's to a guy who shortly after installing blew his top claiming the engine was junk and knocked. Come to find out he had Ebay "marine" injectors form a whorehouse in FL. That pretty much summed up the REAL issue...

And said shop ALWAYS blames the engine and says they NEVER have problems with there products.

[pwood]

Hello my 1884 k5 6.2 N/A 700r is dying. I can get a 599 6.5 N/A long block here in Australia for $8500 or a 6.5 N/A optimizer 2010 shipped from USA for $6800, very expensive to play here.

Will the optimizer transplant be able to use my DB2 pump, C code injectors, J code manifold, exhaust manifold, and will this set up produce the excellent fuel
economy that my 6.2 did, diesel cost $1.50 lt here. Chasing fuel economy, but i imagine with the same fuel flow rate, it would have more power, fresh motor an all.

[Robyn]

The DB2 pump will fit fine.

You may run into a slight issue with the injector lines.

The old 6.2 engines used a slightly different angle on the injectors and the fuel lines area tad different length.

If you use a set of lines from a 92-93 6.5 that had the DB2 pump, your good to go.

The later 6.2's used the fine thread injectors, just be sure yours are the shorter ones.

Other than that, you can use all your 6.2 accessories.

If the engine comes with a water pump, be aware, the 6.5 water pumps are designed to be used with the serp belt and turn opposite direction from the 6.2 v belt drive pumps

The intake and all that stuff will bolt right on. Same with the exhaust manifolds.
Water crossover will fit too.

Be aware that the later 6.5 stuff (AMG) have metric bellhousing bolts.
The GM part number on the bolts is 15724226 get 6 or 7 of them (a spare is nice) These have a stud top but can be used in all six locations.

These are very close to the 3/8-16 bolts that were used on the earlier engines and will fit the tranny holes fine.

The bolts in the side of the block where the motor mounts bolt on are also metric on the new blocks. Those you can likely get locally.

Your starter and the "tail hook" will all fit.

The new blocks have a couple extra oil pressure taps. One up front on the RH side for the turbo and one in the valley under the intake and one in the rear of the block thatis in the normal location for the Oil pressure switch.

The oil cooler ports are 1/2" pipe thread instead of the 3/8" pipe thread.

You can use the little 3/8 to 1/2 "Thin" adapters to allow your fittings to work. Or, if you have a remote cooler thats plumbed in with braided hose and JIC fitings just use the fittings with the 1/2' pipe thread.

Your vacuum pump/oil pump drive will work fine from the old engine.

Depending, the RH valve cover may have a CDR port.

You can just plug it and use yor original Oil filler tube and CDR from the old engine. (Breather)

The air filter will work too.


Pretty much a bolt in part for part swap (Almost)

The issues with the injector lines is going to be the same with the 599 engine too.

Now power will be good, the mileage may fall of a little bit due to the AMG engines having larger precup/ports

With a good set of C injectors and the IP set up well, it should do fine for ya.

Good luck and if we can add anything else, just let us know

Missy

[Robyn]

The DB2 pump will fit fine.

You may run into a slight issue with the injector lines.

The old 6.2 engines used a slightly different angle on the injectors and the fuel lines area tad different length.

If you use a set of lines from a 92-93 6.5 that had the DB2 pump, your good to go.

The later 6.2's used the fine thread injectors, just be sure yours are the shorter ones.

Other than that, you can use all your 6.2 accessories.

If the engine comes with a water pump, be aware, the 6.5 water pumps are designed to be used with the serp belt and turn opposite direction from the 6.2 v belt drive pumps

The intake and all that stuff will bolt right on. Same with the exhaust manifolds.
Water crossover will fit too.

Be aware that the later 6.5 stuff (AMG) have metric bellhousing bolts.
The GM part number on the bolts is 15724226 get 6 or 7 of them (a spare is nice) These have a stud top but can be used in all six locations.

These are very close to the 3/8-16 bolts that were used on the earlier engines and will fit the tranny holes fine.

The bolts in the side of the block where the motor mounts bolt on are also metric on the new blocks. Those you can likely get locally.

Your starter and the "tail hook" will all fit.

The new blocks have a couple extra oil pressure taps. One up front on the RH side for the turbo and one in the valley under the intake and one in the rear of the block thatis in the normal location for the Oil pressure switch.

The oil cooler ports are 1/2" pipe thread instead of the 3/8" pipe thread.

You can use the little 3/8 to 1/2 "Thin" adapters to allow your fittings to work. Or, if you have a remote cooler thats plumbed in with braided hose and JIC fitings just use the fittings with the 1/2' pipe thread.

Your vacuum pump/oil pump drive will work fine from the old engine.

Depending, the RH valve cover may have a CDR port.

You can just plug it and use yor original Oil filler tube and CDR from the old engine. (Breather)

The air filter will work too.


Pretty much a bolt in part for part swap (Almost)

The issues with the injector lines is going to be the same with the 599 engine too.

Now power will be good, the mileage may fall of a little bit due to the AMG engines having larger precup/ports

With a good set of C injectors and the IP set up well, it should do fine for ya.

Good luck and if we can add anything else, just let us know

Missy

[pwood]

he doesnt ship to aust

[JohnC]

You can use the little 3/8 to 1/2 "Thin" adapters to allow your fittings to work.

The late engines have a higher capacity oil pump to accommodate the oil cooler nozzles for the pistons. Because of the way the oil cooler is plumbed, I would recommend you go with 1/2" fittings and lines all the way to accommodate the additional flow. The oil cooler bypass is a pressure relief, not a temperature control, and less capacity at the cooler translates into a permanent restriction in the oil system. You may even want to consider a cooler with bigger fittings, too.